Ranthambore National Park, Jaipur and Agra.

The drive from Bijaipur to Ranthambore was 5 hours.  We were all a bit grumpy and very tired after our night in the tent. 

Our driver missed the turn for Ranthambore and used a minor road (as if the roads could be any worse) to shortcut back to the correct road.  The minor road has, almost, been the most entertaining road so far – tiny villages with people going about their usual business.  Washing themselves and their clothes in the canals or Mums and their children bathing next to the road.  Water buffalo have now entered the mix of wandering livestock as well as another obstacle to avoid on the road.  Never a dull moment – I didn’t want the road to end.

India on the surface appears to be a very chaotic place – you would have to try hard to be on your own – people are constantly in sight, maybe 50 to 100 at most times.  People in vehicles on the road, or in animal drawn carts, or walking, or bathing, or gathered at the local snack shed, or in the barber shed located just centimeters off the road, or working the fields, or men dressed in shirts and trousers building, or just sitting at their front doors.  People are everywhere, going in every direction, creating what seems to be a fast moving chaotic society.  But if you step back and just look at the individual person you quickly realize that the Indian person moves calmly, appearing completely relaxed – in stark contrast to their society (and most western societies).  Men, women and children always happy and smiling.  There doesn’t seem to be any urgency to anyone’s activities – time is clearly on their side. 

We arrived in Sawai Madhopur and were taken to Nahargarh Fort – our accommodation for the next two nights.  We arrived with our jaws dragging on the ground.  From a tent to a Palace – literally a Palace.  I’ve never seen anything like it……

Our tour company have also upgraded us and left some wine in the room for the disruption caused last night! 

We had only just put our bags down when we were called for our first safari.  3 hours of tiger searching – but to no avail.  We saw some wonderful wildlife and fantastic scenery.  Hopefully tigers tomorrow!!

The morning safari departed at 6:30 – a lovely time of day, cool enough to put a fleece on!  The tigers were elusive again and we arrived back at our accommodation skeptical that tigers even existed!!

We enjoyed a few hours of relaxing – idle time has been scarce in the past 10 days.  We had a divine swim in a magnificent pool followed by lunch.  At lunch we were seated with an English women who had also been on two safaris – only she'd seen 4 tigers!!  I received this news with mixed emotion – suddenly optimistic that we might see a tiger and insanely jealous that she had seen tigers in both of her safaris.

We took off again after lunch for our final shot at spotting a tiger.  We were about 20 minutes into our tour when we spotted a beautiful mother tiger with her 1 year old male cub.  It literally took my breath away – the tigress was lazing just 6 or 7 metres off the small track we’d driven up.  Our presence didn’t even warrant a look in our direction.  We sat and watched as she relaxed for about 15 minutes before she got up and stretched and yawned and wandered a little further into the scrub for some shade – and there she stayed for the next 2 hours.  We drove and looked at more scenery and other wildlife before returning one last time to look at the gorgeous tigers.  They look so gentle but so powerful – happy days!!!

Spot the tiger!!!

Back at the ‘Palace’ I took another swim before dinner and then bed – 9 hours of safari riding in the past 27 hours is hard work – Catherine and I were in the back of the jeep and were bounced around like little kids on a trampoline – our bodies will be sore tomorrow.  I described it to Andrew as serious off road 4 wheel driving at high speed!!

Thankfully we can leave Ranthambore NP happy – tomorrow we move on to Jaipur – the Pink City.

When we meet our driver at the front of the palace we found him changing a tyre.  We were off in no time but before leaving Sawai Madhopur we visited the local mechanic…..  It was fun standing on the side of the road watching the passing traffic.

Before long we were on the road again headed for Jaipur.  Jaipur is the capital of Ragistan and home to 6 million people.  A big city.

Our guide Brig meet us not long after our arrival and took us to look at the Palace of Wind and a walking tour of the local bazaar.  He was a great guide and we saw lots of interesting things along the way.  He described all the street food – but was quick to say he didn’t recommend we eat any!!  Shame.

Shopping for wedding outfits

 Brig meet us again the next morning and we set off on a full day of sightseeing.  Amber Fort, City Palace and the Jantar Mantar Observatory.  The observatory was fascinating.  The home of the largest sundial - with accuracy of 2 minutes.  It was also home to sundials for the northern and southern hemispheres and astrological signs as well – dating back to the 16 hundreds.

Back to the hotel for a well earned rest before our long drive to Agra and the Taj Mahal tomorrow – our last full day of the trip.

We set off early  - but not before having the tyre fixed again – only this time we stopped on the side of a massive round about in front of what we discovered was a popular bus stop.  The tolerance all these people show one another is a true credit to them – I really don’t know how they do it.

We were again on our way quickly and the road to Agra was great.  40kms out of Agra we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri – are very impressive place.  It was once the Mughal capital of India.

We drove on to Agra and checked into our hotel for a short break before heading out to Agra Fort.  A very impressive stronghold – again from the Mughal era.  It was made mostly of red sandstone – but the areas built to house Mumtaz (when she was alive) and her two daughters were made of marble – similar architecture and stone work to the Taj Muhal.  A really beautiful place and in much better condition than the Red Fort (built by the Grandfather) in Delhi.

This little girl's father asked Catherine to pose for a photo with her!

 

Back to hotel for dinner and bed – in anticipation of our 5:30 wake call to see the Taj at sunrise.

It was easy to rise early knowing we were heading for the Taj.  We set off in the dark but light was quickly filling the sky.  We qued for around half an hour before being let in at sunrise – 6:40am.  It was a long walk (or so it seemed) to the gate for our first glimpse of the Taj – WOW WOW WOW.  It’s just spectacular and very surreal – it’s such a familiar sight, it’s hard to believe we’re standing in front of it.  Our guide gave as wonderful information about the Taj and then we were free to wander and admire.  A beautiful time of the morning and a very clear morning so the sun changed the colour of the Taj over the hour and half we were there.  I could sat and look at it all day, so it was sad to say goodbye!!

Back at the home we packed our cases for the final time, before a quick dip in the pool.  The the long journey began – 5 hours drive to Delhi (I'll miss the sights of India.........)

4 hour wait for our flight in Delhi, which turned into 6 hours (plane 2 hour delayed) – 4 hour stop over in Singapore then home bound!!  Coming home has never been sweeter!!  A wonderful once in a lifetime holiday finished – memories made!!

Till next time……

A.

Udaipur and Bijaipur

It was another long day of driving – but the sights again kept us entertained.  What we have seen so far has been flat open land, today that finally gave way to steep winding roads – up into the ‘mountains’.  Hills probably a more suitable description in Australian terms.  The lush farming land gave way to rocky barren land.  We drove for some time upward through rocky unforgiving land – but once at the top we were surprised to find lush, grassy areas – finally some cows that looked well feed!

Udaipur is nestled amongst some of these hills – high up in the ‘mountains’.  With a population of 500,000 Udaipur is bigger than most large country towns in Australia.  Divided into the old and new and huddled around 5 lakes – we were told by our local guide that Udaipur was the ‘Lake District’ of Ragistan.

Our full day in Udaipur was ‘full’.  It began with a tour of the city, taking in the City Palace, a tour on Lake Pichola and later a dancing show – held in a Havelis in the old town.  It was a long day but our guide was wonderful and supplied us with so much information.

A highlight of the day was seeing a wedding procession on our way out in the evening.  It is custom that the groom travel (preferably) on a white horse to the brides home – the groom looked terrified!!

 After two nights in Udaipur we packed up and headed for Bijaipur.  On route to Bijaipur we stopped for high tea at Palace Hotel Ravla Khempur – or now better know as The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.  It was a fun tour of the hotel and grounds – and standing where Dame Judy’s bedroom set was!!!

Bijaipur is also up in the mountains, our itinerary told us that we would be staying in the Bijaipur Castle and would explore the local villages via jeep.  Only when we arrived at Bijaipur Castle our driver was told they were full.  Not to worry the owners have another property half an hour down the road.  So off we go – we didn’t need a jeep safari after the drive to the next property.  The road took us through some of the poorest looking areas we’ve seen so far – the turn off to the ‘hotel’ was a dirt track that finally gave way to a steep rock face – yes the road to the ‘hotel’ was down a steep rock face!!  So really it should not have been a surprise when we realised our accommodation was a tent.  Yes from a Castle to a tent – how quickly things can change.

The 'road' to our tent!!

It was not the night we expected and we discovered we were not the only unhappy guest kicked out of the castle.  Despite my initial protests of refusing to enjoy any part of this adventure we did have an OK stay – not much sleep in the tent but the safari was excellent.  Due to our change in location the safari took us to different villages, villages who don’t see foreign tourist very often or at all – we felt like royalty.  Beautiful local families with gorgeous smiles opening their doors to show us their humble homes.  A truly real experience.

We made a quick getaway the next morning – breathing a sigh of relief that our car made it back up the rock face road to the sealed road – on to Ranthambore to (hopefully) see a tiger or two.

A.