With 16,007 kms behind us we left Kakadu and turned left….south!!! After 3 months of driving away from home we’re finally headed in the direction of home. It feels new. There are lots of things I miss about home and once we finish this adventure I’m sure there will be many more things I miss about being on the road. So it’s a time of mixed feelings.
The Stuart Highway was at times busier than the Bellarine Highway - there were some funny sites along the way too!
Our journey south to Alice Springs was broken up with 3 nights at Mataranka Homestead – one more night than we had planned. I think we were clinging to the last of the warm weather and swimming in the thermals springs. It was a very relaxing 3 days.
From Mataranka it was a quick two day drive down to Alice – we had morning coffee at Daly Waters Pub...
We spent the
night at Tennant Creek (one night was enough) and visited the Devils Marbles,
all of us standing in wonder at how the enormous stones stay perched on top of
each other and silently hoping that today wasn’t the day they’d roll off!!!
We arrived in Alice in the early afternoon to find many of the parks
fully booked – people!! Time to
begin readjusting to people being everywhere. We had one whole day in Alice, we visited the Old Telegraph
Station and read about my Grandfather’s cousins – the Bradshaw’s who were an
important part of the Telegraphs history and whose eldest daughter wrote a book
‘Alice on the line’ about their time at the station. Having just travelled from Darwin the girls seemed to appreciate
the enormity of the telegraph – we stood and gazed at the ‘Darwin’ line,
imagining the land it crossed to reach the sea and the struggle the workers
would’ve faced running the wire.
As with many sites in Australia the history of the Telegraph is
surrounded with land and ownership conflict and a sad history followed the
closure of the station when it was used as a type of compound for mixed race
children.
We also took in the views from Anzac Hill.
Our final stop was the Royal Flying Doctors Service, such an impressive
and valuable service. The museum
and the short film were so informative and the girls were very impressed.
From Alice we headed west out through the West MacDonell ranges. Stopping at Stanley Chasm……
Ellery Big Hole……
The Orche Pits. This was a
highlight for all of us – it was like one giant painters palate. We all stood imagining we were painting
and pointing out where we’d take our colours from. Very impressive….
We stayed a couple of nights at Glen Helen Gorge Resort, visiting Glen
Helen Gorge…..
Ormiston Gorge…..
and Redbank Gorge…..
From Glen Helen we began our journey around to Kings Canyon, stopping at
Tylers Pass. From the pass there
is a spectacular view out over the land to Tnorala (Gosse Bluff). The traditional owners story speaks of
a Mother dropping her baby from a ceremony up in the stars and the baby falling
to the ground. Science tells us
that an enormous (600 m across) meteorite hit the earth. The crater is spectacular whether you
believe the traditional tellings or the scientific explanation. We stood and tried to imagine it 2 kms
higher and 15 kms wider just 40 millions years ago!!!
After admiring it from a far we drove into the centre, I think the view
from afar is the best view – or perhaps an aerial view would be the best?!
On we headed for Kings Canyon...
We arrived at Kings Canyon Resort in time to set up and enjoy the sunset
over the spectacular ranges.
Kings Canyon is best seen from the rim, the only downfall is it is a 6
km walk to view it. We decided
that we’d done enough walking over the past 3 months to condition not only
ourselves but the girls (especially Isla) to the walk. We set off early with a slow and steady
attitude. It took us 3 hours
to complete the walk, with 3 stops along the way. The girls didn’t falter and walked like seasoned hikers,
announcing it was easy at the finish!!
 |
| Ivy rescuing a few friends then loosing her tooth!! |
From Kings Canyon we moved on to Yulara with the excitement building over
every hill, can we see it yet?
Finally it came into view and there were ‘WWOOOOWWWWSSS’ from every
corner of the car. What a
sight. Even after having seen it
twice before I was no less ‘wowed’ by it.
It is a magnificent sight and one that boggles the mind…so big!
We had 4 nights at Ayers Rock Resort. Day 1 was predicted to be the best weather so the climb was
on. I’d spent a lot of time over the
12 months prior debating whether I’d climb, erring on the side of not, with the
idea I would stay on the ground with Isla. Now that Isla had proved her fitness there was no reason to
stay grounded. Even on the morning
of the climb my mind was torn – finally my desire to achieve this feat with my
family won over the desire to respect something highly significant to
others. I think my (and probably
all other climbers) reasoning behind choosing to climb is the ability to hide
behind the unknown, such significance and connection to the land is so foreign
to us. Of course it is possible
for us to respect the fact this land and it’s formations hold great importance
to others while still fulfilling our own dreams and ultimately (for me)
creating precious family memories.
Having said that I think the rock punished us – Isla despite passing her
fitness test was not on form. It just
wasn’t her day!! Andrew assisted
her for the first section and then all she wanted was me. Andrew and the 3 girls powered on
leaving us in their dust. Isla at
times was like a rag doll, lagging and refusing to use her own feet. For those of you who have climbed Uluru
you would know that the first section, at times, is quite precarious dropping
off either side. A passing lady
took pity and gave her a soft jelly, which spurred her on for half a dozen
paces. We arrived at the top of
the chain, greeted by the rest of the family who were all well water and
rested, and Isla suddenly gained her strength…funny that!! The rest of the climb to the top was
easier but much colder – once over the peak the winds were strong and very cold. Isla held my hand for most of the time
– even as we descended – I walked backwards while she used my feet as steps!!! Needless to say she slept for 16 hours
that night so she must have used some of her own energy.
The 3 older girls climbed, probably like they would on a playground,
with ease and excitement. Only at
times faltering when the path grew thin or the slope steep. It was a big effort by all and one that
we’ll add to the special memory bank.
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) were on the list the following day – I don’t
think there was anyone in the car who didn’t have sore legs. We were all reluctant to walk any
distance but we managed to do two small walks – 2.5km each. Just a lazy 5 kms!!
First was the Valley of the Winds to the Karu Lookout and then the Walpa Gorge walk…..
On our final day Olivia, Alice, Ivy and I took part in a Dot Painting
workshop. It gave us an
interesting insight into the story telling of the Anangu people. For the first part of the workshop we
all sat around a small circular sand pit and Joanne (a member of the Anangu
tribe) told us stories using the sand and her language – the stories were
translated by an English speaking lady.
After the stories were told we were encouraged to create our own
painting telling our own stories – about our travels, our home, our family –
using the Anangu peoples symbols.
It was such a lovely experience and a very therapeutic one too. Here are our stories.
(top L Olivia, top R Alice, bottom L Me, bottom R Ivy).
With the end of the day came the end of our time at Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Tomorrow it’s time to head further
south towards Coober Pedy. We’ve
booked into an underground room – hopefully it’s warmer than what we’ve been
experiencing. The coldest night so
far has been .7c – bbbrrrrrr! But
we’re still smiling!!!
By the time we get home Melbourne weather will seem balmy. A house with a heater!!
A.
