Wednesday 29 June 2022

CAPE YORK AND THE NORTHERN PENINSULA AREA

Our campsite on the beach was perfect despite the fact we couldn’t swim in the water just 20 mts from the tent – the world’s biggest tease!  Our unobstructed view out over Torres Strait and the Torres Strait Islands was like something out of a catalogue.  We had lots to tick off up at the tip and we wasted no time getting on with it.














About an hour after we set up camp, much to our amazement, a helicopter came and landed right on the beach about 100 mts up from us.  For a small fee (!!) you and 2 friends could be swept off to enjoy an aerial view of wherever you’d like to go.  It took a few days (of convincing) but I finally got ALL my friends to agree to a chopper ride.  We had to split up and take 2 flights.  Despite the nerves – quite windy and no doors on the chopper - it was the most spectacular 20 minute ride up over the tip – the pictures really don’t do it any justice.  We had a clear view out to many of the Torres Straits Islands and a birdseye view off all the beaches up the coast to the tip.  It was such a great experience.













Of course we also had to walk to the tip, we also found an abandoned resort up there too - it was like a horror movie set.














We visited a few WWII plane wrecks and a war fuel dump point…









We also visited Somerset and Locherbie, two places where the Jardine’s established a cattle farm in the late 1880’s after having driven 250 head of cattle up from Rockhampton – only the 2nd successful attempt to make it right up the Peninsula.  I really can’t imagine how anyone could manage such a feat.  







We also attended a local festival designed to bring together the many smaller northern indigenious communities.  We watched the parade and some of the festivities on the local oval.  We’re all very familiar with a welcome to country, however, on this occasion it was exceptionally special to be welcomed to country by one of the current land owners.






Our final day up north was not spent on the mainland but out on the Torres Strait Islands.  The ferry from Siesia took us to Thursday Island – the Torres Straight crossing wasn’t nearly as rough as we thought it might be.  We were met on the pier by our tour guide Liberty and set off.  He was excellent, giving us the history of the small community, the interesting stories of the diverse people buried in the cemmetary - a huge section just for all the lost pearl divers, telling us about the crayfish techniques, the pearling history and showing us the impressive fort used in both World Wars – but mostly World War II.

 

When we’d finished our tour of TI we hopped on a fast ferry across to Horn Island.  A much bigger Island with far fewer people – we were met by our next guide and taken straight to lunch!  An amazing Cantonese buffet – cooked by Liberty’s Mum.  

 

Our guides were actually husband and wife and the tours they’ve created on both Islands have World War II at the centre.  Vanessa (our Horn Is guide) came to TI in the 90’s to teach.  As she got to know the area she began to discover the (mostly unknown) important war history, particularly on Horn Is.  She’s made it her life’s works since to name and honor all those who served in the Torres Strait during World War II – she’s even established a museum containing so much information you’d need months to read it all.  I think she said they’ve tracked down and spoken to over 200 returned service men and women who were vital in protecting mainland Australia from the Japanese threat.  The efforts of her work are extrodinary.  Her current passion is to locate and restore all the important war sites on Horn Is.  She showed as a couple that have been restored and some that are ‘a work in progress’ or ‘to be commenced’ – including a site of a tragic plane crash – earmarked for archeological excavation later this year – we were able to walk around the partily visible wreak.  It will be so interesting if I ever return here to see the entire legacy she creates – a remarkable women – she’s already received an OAM.






























We said goodbye to Vanessa and hopped back on the fast ferry to TI to meet the ferry to go back to Seisia.  The return voyage was not so smooth!!  We made it safely back to the mainland and enjoyed our final night at Loyalty Beach – despite the rain!

 

The next morning was moving day – we said goodbye to Loyalty and NPA with heavy hearts.  It’s a beautiful part of the world and lovely little communities.  Our 5 nights here I’m sure will be one of the highlights of the trip.  From here it’s south, back the way we came!