Mandawa and Pushkar

We set off early from Delhi – peak hour!!  There really isn’t anything to compare it with.  Despite the volume of vechiles on the road it seems to work and keep moving.  Put that volume in Melbourne and it would be an all day gridlock.  A round about is merely a bend in the road – not only do you not give way to the right it seems you don’t even need to look right – you just merge!  The highway need not have lines – you just drive where you can.  We even saw a couple of cars do a u-turn and use the left hand lane to back back against traffic to the exit they needed!!  So we left Delhi flanked by cars, buses, tuk tuks with entire extended families inside, motorbikes with 3 or 4 riders and pedestrians.  It took some time but eventually we seemed to move off at a reasonable pace.

Mandawa was around a 5 hour drive and there was never a time not to see something fascinating.  Whether it be two trucks or buses coming toward us side by side on a single road, or beautifully dressed women walking with a gloriously shining silver pot on her head, or 10 story apartments blocks under construction one after the other as far as the eye can see – enough housing for many hundreds of thousands of people, or a pink or purple or green farmhouse – or just the many animals wandering about.  The time past quickly. 

It was a long way out of Delhi before we arrived in ‘rural’ towns – the 10 storey ‘under construction’ apartments went on for over 50 kms – it’s staggering to think of the amount of development going on in such a small space.

We arrived in Mandawa in the mid afternoon.  Only one street in the old part of town – it was bustling.  Women dancing, cows wandering, men sitting and cars, buses, motorbikes all trying to pass each other.

We spotted a few of the Havelis on our way in.   Mandawa is famous for it’s Havelis ‘Wind Houses’.  They were the houses of the merchants – a popular stopping place along the spice road.  The Havelis are ornately decorated with paintings; they reminded me (obviously in a very different way) to the aboriginal paintings we saw last year - paintings of life as it was in times gone by.

We met our guide later who took us on a 2 hour walking tour of Mandawa.  Narrow winding streets, colorfully painted houses and many Havelis.

The highlight (or lowlight) was being call ‘sir’ at a small shop – our guide put him straight and the shop owner was very apologetic.  He said it was because of my short hair – hhmmm!!

Our overnight stay in Mandawa was in the old Castle (or fort) – very grand and a bit of fun.

Another early start for a long day of driving.  Even though the distance to Pushkar, our next destination, is under 300kms it’s going to take us 6 hours to driving to get there.  Driving here is like driving through an obstacle course – or perhaps playing a computer game where you have to dodge all the on coming obstacles and trust me there are many!  Somehow two lane roads are transformed into 4 lane roads – vechiles everywhere and anywhere!!

The drive went quickly again with more things to see and before we knew it, it was mid afternoon and we’d arrive in the holy city of Pushkar.   Boasting the only Brahmas Temple, it’s a place where many pilgrims come.

We did another late afternoon walking tour of the market, temple and the Holy Lake.  We’re staying in a Palace this time overlooking the holy lake.

We found a great spot out in the town to eat – overlooking the lake.  It started out as a still warm night – perfect.  Over in the distance we could see an electrical storm – a nice bit of entertainment.  It moved very quickly and soon was right above us – a sheet of lightening let off an almighty clap and the entire town (bar a few places dotted around that must have generators) was plunged into darkness.  We stayed seated at our outside table overlooking the lake and the lights came back on about 10 minutes later.  Thinking that was the end of the fast moving electrical storm we were taken by surprise when the wind suddenly pick up – we watched only briefly before realizing a huge dust cloud was coming for us.  We moved quickly but not quick enough – grabbing our dinner and drinks and running inside – the waiters waiting for everyone to make it inside before quickly rolling the roller doors down.  Our food now covered in sandy dessert dirt was inedible – we watched and listened as the storm thundered around – rain too!!

Our walk back to the hotel, although only short, was in darkness and trying to avoid large pools of water.  An interesting night.

Day 2 in Pushkar was at our leisure.  We decided on a massage to begin with at the Homepathic Hospital.  One of best hours you’re ever likely to have for $9!!  I felt like I was gliding afterwards – or perhaps I was just sliding because of all the oil!!  Delivered by a gorgeous lady with very strong hands and a beautiful smile – heavenly.

Then on to a bit of shopping, followed by lunch before a late afternoon camel safari.  2 hours of fun with 3 very young guides – all under 18.  We galloped off literally into the sunset, out in dessert.  Camels can go quite fast!!  We left the noisey chaotic centre of Pushkar headed straight for the dessert.  It was a fun 2 hours and the sunset was magnificent.

We’ll sleep well tonight – thankfully Catherine and I are getting up early for a class of yoga – we might need it after that camel race!!

After a niosey sleep – dogs, horns, music, people  - you name it we heard it!!  Pushkar is the town that never sleeps.  Catherine and I took off on foot to find the ‘yoga garden’ – a 15 minute walk out of town.  Yoga aside it was a gorgeous walk out through the fields.  We found the place and were treated to a private 90 minute class – sensational.  I learnt a few new moves and felt much better for it afterwards.

Back to hotel to meet our driver to head onto our next destination – Udiapur.

A.